I'm thinking about trying a 100% conventional foam mattress using materials from FBM. About me: - 6'3" - 320lbs - very muscular; not much "natural padding" - wide shoulders compared to waist - tend to be warm all the time - mostly back sleeper but like to start off on my side for the first 30 minutes to 1 hour I've been sleeping happily on a Comfortaire (Sleep Number clone) for the past 12 years. Sadly, my beloved Comfortaire has sprung a leak. They want $130 for a new air bladder and it isn't even the right height. Apparently, they stopped making 9" tall mattresses some time ago. They want me to take a 6" air bladder and a 3" slab of foam as replacement. Somehow that doesn't seem like the right thing to do so I've been scouring this forum for the past couple of weeks trying to come up with a better option. My goal is to replicate the feel of my Comfortaire (Sleep Number clone) air bed. My Confortaire is basically a 9" thick heavy duty air bladder made of rubber with cotton fabric bonded to the outside. There's a thin quilted pillowtop above the air bladder and that's it. I have always kept the bed inflated to very close to 100% pressure. I inflate to 100% and then bleed out just enough air to get full mattress contact along my whole body. It would be great if I could duplicate the feeling of the Confortaire bed. I'm open to using foam, latex, or memory foam in any combination. I don't have a fixed budget but I am very cheap and proud to say it! : ) I would prefer to go with an all-conventional foam mattress (no memory or latex) if I can get away with it. I expect to sleep on this for only 1-2 years so I don't want to spend more than I need to. However, I do need to get good rest for the next 1-2 years.
Here's what I'm thinking (from bottom to top): 6" LUX-HQ (ILD 50) from FBM 2" HD36-HQ (ILD 35) from FBM 1" Super Soft (ILD 12) from FBM Walmart Cuddle Bed Topper http://www.walmart.com/ip/Cuddle-Bed-400-Thread-Count-Mattress-Topper/15034400
Or would this be better?
6" LUX-HQ (ILD 50) from FBM 3" HD36-HQ (ILD 35) from FBM Walmart Cuddle Bed Topper http://www.walmart.com/ip/Cuddle-Bed-400-Thread-Count-Mattress-Topper/15034400
So am I crazy to think about trying a bed that's 100% conventional foam with no memory foam or latex? I would actually be ok ordering one of the 6" thick latex matresses from FBM (one 6" thick slab with uniform ILD) if I knew that was the right thing for me. I'm just too afraid that I would pick the wrong ILD and flush $400 down the drain. Maybe FBM's firmest latex (36ILD) isn't even high enough for me at 320lbs. Also, is conventional foam "hotter" than latex? I know that memory foam is "hot" and latex is comparitively "cool." Where does conventioal foam belong in the comparison? |
I like #2 better. I have the LUX-R 5" FBM and it's quite firm. So your base is good. I am thinking about getting a 3" HD36 and for you it should soften the blow. Maybe a 3" talalay might be the cherry on top. Good luck. I think you made good choices. |
http://www.foamdistributing.com/products/lux-hqM.html Based on your body specs I'm assuming you're a professional athlete, so can't you afford anything :-) But seriously, you seem like a candidate for zoning. My current configuration (I've been changing it around a lot), has LUX-HQ and HD36-HQ base (3" of each), with 2" of 20ILD latex under the hip area and 2" of 4lb MF from the navel upwards (all from FBM). I have a 1" piece of super-soft that I shall try on top soon. I think I like it.
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I am just curious, did you look into the difference in feel between the 6" and 9" air bladder? Since you like the air matress feeling, It seems to me it is worthwhile to try the 6" air bladder for $130. You can buy other foam as topper and see whether you can get similar feeling. By the way, I am not againt foam mattress, nor do I have a preference to air mattress. I have a all latex mattress. |
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I didn't. Why? It's clear that this bed is near the end of its life. The foam surrounds that encase the air bladders are deformed. The air pump has already needed two repairs. The mattress is shabby all around. It looks like it's ready to be retired. If I spend $130 to get one new bladder... How long until the other one goes? Then I'm $260 into a very rough looking old mattress. Possibly more. The cost of these replacement bladders increases in price every month because the warranty is prorated. From my many years on this bed, I can tell that a 6" bladder would not be a good thing. Maybe it's fine for the 100lb crowd but not for me. My 9" bed is right on the edge of being enough. A 6" bladder would require optimal inflation pressure to not bottom out. See below for an explanation of why it's impossible to maintain perfect inflation through the night. There are some things I don't like about the bed. I can set the air pressure perfectly before sleep but wake up to a much harder or much softer bed due to overnight variations in the barometric pressure. Ideally, the bed would continuously adjust the bladder pressure relative to the outside air pressure. My bed doesn't do that. I absolutely despise the split bladder design that allows one side to be harder or softer than the other. When you're one person it's nothing but a pain. There's always somewhat of a crevasse in the middle where the bladders meet. It's a big pain to try to equalize the hardness of both sides. I have to lay on one side and adjust; move to the other side and adjust. It's impossible to get both side exactly equal. Lastly, the air pump sounds like a jet taking off. Seriously. It's 2-3 times louder than my vaccum cleaner. Some air beds have silent pumps but mine isn't one of them. When the bed is adjusted correctly it's absolutely ideal for me. I would like to duplicate that in a bed that doesn't require air to function. I want the great sleep without the air bed downsides. Hope this helps to clarify my decision. |
I wonder if I might be misunderstanding you on this... Are you saying that you've slept on a solid 5" thick slab of 50 ILD LUX-R? If so, I am very intrigued! So much so that I might consider ordering my slab of LUX first, all by itself, so that I can give it a try. I figure that it's best to start off hard. I can always add softer layers as needed. This message was modified Jan 14, 2012 by bigdaddyk
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I just have to agree with Sara that once you find a setup that actually works for you, I'd stick with it. Going max inflation, then fine tuning until it just starts to contour sounds great. Unless the other problems, the split bladder & noise etc. you really just can't live with (maybe the brand name version is better in those regards?), then of course it's time to experiment. The second setup you listed sounds better. That 1" 12ild layer might as well not even be there under you, & especially if it's free shipping start with as few layers as possible- if it's all the same price getting them one layer at a time., & err on the side of too firm, since you can always add a softer topper, but can't use layers that are too soft or return them without penalty. On that note maybe buy the 50ild hd/hr base, then experiment with comfort layers from local big box stores risk free. I just think ultimately if you like the feel of the air bed, nothing going's to duplicate that- it might be worth the $130 to take them up on the bladder replacement, & building on that, unless you've just had it with the noise & know you're done with it. I can't imagine hearing that when you're winding down for sleep. |
I'm glad to hear that poly is underrated! After reading this forum for weeks it's easy to feel like latex and memory are the only options for a good sleep. On the topic of the air beds, I'm at the point where I want to try something different. I'm through with the air bed hassles. I also get the impression that the air beds have gone down the same path as regular mattresses with respect to quality. Comfortaire has reduced air bladder thickness. Both Sleep Number and Comfortaire are less expensive today than 12 years ago. When you take inflation into account they are A LOT cheaper. Today's dollar is worth about 3/4 of a dollar from twelve years ago. How did they manage to make their products so much less costly? I believe they've cheapened them. I've read about a lot of people having leak problems with the Sleep Number beds, much more so than 12 years ago when I initially investigated them. Incidentally, Comfortaire was the originator of this type of bed. Sleep Number is a clone of the Comfortaire. I wrote "Sleep Number Clone" in my original post because nearly everyone is familiar with it, while virtually no one is familiar with Comfortaire. It seems that Sleep Number has always had more problems than Comfortaire. They've made a few very bad design choices IMHO versus the Comfortaire. Maybe the changes were needed to avoid patent problems. I'm assuming that Comfortaire patented their original design. As you point out, I can always shop local big box stores for comfort layers if I need them. A few online stores seem to have no-hassle returns on them too. It think the poly base plus topper is a great way to skirt the laws prohibiting mattress returns. Hopefully, I won't need a comfort layer but if I do the option is there to try them risk free. Also, some of the toppers sold by retailers are name brand foam (Sensus, Venus, etc) whereas the FBM stuff is generic. On the topic of the LUX-HQ base, the BedInABox webpage for their PacBed Original™ Memory Foam Mattress states "6 inch supports individuals up to 250lbs, or couples up to 400lbs. ... Additional 2 inch High Resiliency Support base foam designed for individuals over 250lbs, or couples over 400lbs." The PacBed has 3 inches of memory foam above the poly base. Now I'm wondering if I might need 8 or 9 inches of LUX-HQ. I wonder if BedInABox uses an ILD 50 foam base like LUX-HQ or something softer like HD36-HQ with ILD 35. I'm also looking into a bed from http://originalmattressfactory.com. User TC2334 posted a recommendation for their Orthopedic Extra Firm. TC2334 has a 400lb friend who is happy with the bed. There are a number of posts here stating that Original Mattress Factory builds quality beds the old fashioned way. I might end up visiting the showroom to try this mattress. I could by a lot of foam and topper for same price though... |
Experiment! You may find the right layering right off, or it may take some work. |
If there's an OMF showroom near you, then you might as well go try out their mattresses. You might find one you like, or your visit might confirm your initial decision to go with a 50-ILD foam base. Either way, it's good. |
I've abandoned the idea of doing an all poly foam mattress. After I looked at the cost of the HQ poly foams it was clear that there isn't that much of price difference over bargain latex. I also realized that I can buy the latex for the larger bed that I want but don't have room for and cut it down to Twin XL. Later, when I have the room I can reassemble Twin XL sized foam and the other parts into a larger cover. Very cool! I found cheap latex toppers at Walmart. With Walmart's no hassle 30 day return policy I couldn't resist ordering a couple to try out. The all poly bed was going to be risk. I had no way to try poly without ordering a big chunk from FBM. Returning to FBM is barely worth it after shipping costs are deducted. With the latex toppers I could try risk free. After having the Walmart latex toppers for a few days, I'm a latex convert. They're horrible toppers but I can see the potential for greatness in a properly designed latex stack. My experience with the Walmart latex toppers is in this new thread: http://www.whatsthebest-mattress.com/forum/classic-brands-dormia-latex-topper-walmart/27568-0-1.html This message was modified Jan 21, 2012 by bigdaddyk
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